AT first it was hard to believe how different Beijing’s atmosphere, landscape and style are compared to the Shanghai-Hangzhou-Nanjing triangle I had only ever known. No skyscrapers jutting to the moon or hyper-modern design, just three-story buildings, spacious roads, tree-lit sidewalks and plenty of quiet, peaceful hutongs. As the high-speed train sailed into Beijing South Railway Station there was no ongoing urban sprawl announcing we were entering the eternal capital, just mountains and farms. As we sped towards downtown in the subway, digital advertisements flickered on the tunnel walls like a movie, known as a zoetrope, and created a blurry idea of Beijing’s less-than-brash modernity. After refreshing at the hostel and stepping out into a famed hutong, fire crackers filled the night air signifying the Year of the Snake. It also presented me with the chance to explore a city so different to anywhere else I’d seen in China. Thinking back, there were five activities that shaped my Beijing experience and left me wanting more or this eclectic capital.
1. Da Dong Peking Duck Restaurant
When a group of friends from Wuxi took me to this restaurant for a traditional roast duck, I expected a crowded, loud, casual eatery, filled with smoke and bottles of Tsing Tao. How wrong I was. Da Dong is one of the most famous seafood restaurants in Beijing, particularly Chef Dong’s specialty: sea cucumber. Though I didn’t try the deep sea specimen my friends and I did opt for a whole barbequed duck and dish of shrimp. The duck, lean, fresh and roasted to perfection, is carved at your table and served with pancakes and condiments. Since it was the festive season, DaDong presented each table with a sweet pre-dinner appetizer: an intricately designed red toffee apple accompanied with cherry cheesecake balls. Alongside amazing food, DaDong’s restaurant radiates traditional China like I have never seen before. Ornaments and paintings cover this popular joint and give any visitor to Beijing a taste of class in the capital. Be sure to visit more than once. A half duck is more than enough for two people – if you get too greedy, the rich taste can cause sickness. Trust me, I know from experience. After dinner grab an acrobatics show at the nearby Chaoyang Theatre. Address: 3 Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dongsanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District. Ph: 010-6582-2892/4003.
2. Red Theatre
Kung Fu, China and movies are synonymously associated. To have the opportunity to see Red Theatre’s Kung Fu show was an introduction to a traditional China I have little knowledge about. Initially I expected this show to be a display of brute strength and routine but was surprised to find theatrical elements just as vivid as the action. Red Theatre mix gritty Kung Fu moves with the story of a man’s journey from student to Zen master. The show begins on a sombre note with the boy leaving his mother forever to become entrenched in the ways of a monk. A smart series of acts ensues including crowd-pleasing displays of iron strength. The show keeps the audience captivated by swinging from the boy’s story and growth into adulthood to amazing physical feats and some acrobatics. The mix of history, personal sentiment and physicality not only entertains but also educates the viewer about a monk’ sacrifices. Red Theatre’s architecture is also worth a look at with symbolic red metal architecture wrapped over the front of the centre. www.redtheatre.cn For discount tickets phone: 1355 252 7373.
3. Dongcheng District
Walking through Dongcheng District it seems like everyday life unfolds like it has done for centuries before. That is until you unexpectedly come across the Bell and Drum Towers. The monstrous buildings command respect as everyday life unfolds in the surrounding hutongs. A feeling of history waves over you as you soak in this sight. My group saw it at sunset. Although there are shows here through the day, including tours, take time to visit this ancient wonder as the sun fades. A feeling of eternity washes over you. How many others have stood transfixed on the Bell Tower as the sun goes down? Afterwards, check out local markets and enjoy the eclectic clash: history stands next to modernity; western stores pop up crammed between the traditional. Pay a visit to the thirsty-for-blood Vampire in Beijing souvenir store to get an idea of just how multi-faceted and tasteful this district is. From tradition to transition, you will be consumed by its individual charms and creativity. As night sets in, head to nearby Houhai for a drink at any of the several bars. Vampire in Beijing: No. 109-3 Gulou East Street, Dongcehng District, Telephone: 13693338067
4. Long Qing Gorge
My friend and I spent about as long researching and planning how to get to Longqing Gorge Ice Festival as we actually did there. The hostel staff was incredibly unhelpful- even after 3 hours of continuous questioning until they finally remembered you could take a train to Yanqing City. Trains depart half-hourly from Beijing North Railway Station and a one-way ticket costs RMB6. The train trip took 1.5 hours and was totally worth it. You see mountains, the Great Wall, snow, creeks and a lot of pine forest. It definitely set up the afternoon/evening for a magical experience. After arriving at the Yanqing City train station, a friendly couple from a nearby village escorted us to the gorge. There's a lot to see here in any season but perhaps most spectacular during January and February when event organizers chip ice block into a mass of temples, churches, igloos, and sculptures that stand proudly in the frigid winter temperatures beneath the gorge wall. During summer, hiking, boat tours and water sports – including bungee jumping – are up for anyone wanting adventure. If in winter, toboggan down the gorge and drive a bumper car on ice. They’re cool extra's after you’re done sightseeing. The last train to Beijing from Yanqing City is at around 9:15PM but we got a taxi back to Beijing for RMB400. It’s definitely worth going to see the Ice Festival even if it's a time consuming effort to organize how to get there.
Travel: S train from Beijing North Railway Station to Yanqing City or ask hotel staff for bus route.
Wangfujing Snack Street
5. After visiting several cities on the China seaboard, traipsing Wangfujing Snack St in Beijing is the most vivid, traditional food market I have ever seen. Packed with people, there is a plethora of different foods to feast your eyes, and if you’re daring, taste buds on.
Want some crackle and pop, try scorpions, seahorse, sparrow or snake. One friend was up for the challenge and after devouring snake on skewer said it tasted like fried chicken. This snack street, set in the heart of Beijing’s busiest shopping district, is an exhibition in itself: a unique east-west fusion of Chinese traditional culture united with a nation’s modern vision for the future.
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